3 vs 4 Bolt Necks
 

What is the reasoning for the 3 bolt necks that fender throws in on random models. I have a 69 thinline and I love the neck. I want to get the 72 but the blasted neck (which i cant stand) is a 3 bolt so it cant be switched out with the 69 or even a standard.

So wtf is the point of them making these? I thought the beauty of Fender was you can easily mod and swap parts.

3 bolt necks have a washer and a small adjustment that lets you set the neck pocket angle without the use of a shim. The downside of this is that they're not as secure and are prone to shifting. 4 bolt necks are the better option, but they require either a shim in the neck pocket, or a neck pocket routed at the correct angle, in order to provide a correct playing angle.

Neck Angle Calculator - The Tundra Man Workshop

I caution you NOT to use no neck angle on your guitar, use an extremely shallow one, like 1 degree. Fender teles use no neck angle, but they use a bridge that is mounted ever so slightly too low on the body in my opinion. A higher neck angle will increase break point pressure on the saddles and improve your tuning stability, but too much of a neck break angle will raise the bridge too far off the body for comfort. For reference, a gibson les paul uses a 5 degree neck angle, though some have used 3 degrees. I'd recommend an angle no larger than 1.5 degrees.

The alternative is to make your guitar with no neck angle and recess the bridge.

Speaking of which, are you gonna be using a tele plate bridge on this guitar, or are you looking to try something different? If you are, I'd fully recommend a wilkinson gotoh bridge (Warmoth sells those too. Not to be confused with normal wilkinson bridges, these are made by gotoh, to higher quality standards, and are basically just ****ing awesome.)

I will look into to that thanks. And yes I was just making a regular 2 pickup tele. Only difference being p90 neck instead of lipstick.

I am thinking I am going to recess the bridge (granted I do not know how yet) because I assume it would be much harder to route out the neck pocket at a particular angle rather than flat.

Yes,(although not THAT much harder) but its the best way of doing it bar none. You'll see endless threads on the internet complaining that a neck pocket with a shim in it is a neck pocket done wrong and fixed later. The wood to wood contact of a well done neck pocket is very important for the tone of the finished instrument.

For that same reason, look into these: WBS Guitar/Bass Neck Joint System Kit Project DIY L@@K on eBay.ca (item 170305952745 end time 15-Jan-11 09:09:45 EST)

They use a threaded insert that screws into the neck and stays there, rather than a standard wood screw. The upshot of it is you can use MUCH more clamping force on the neck and get a stronger, more stable, and more resonant joint.

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