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Old 07-02-2009, 02:34 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Veridical Fiction View Post
Well, I bought an 03 Honda Civic LX not too long ago and, not that I would expect it to give me any trouble, but it's been about 3 or 4 months and not so much as a shake so far.
I always hear good things about the reliability and lifespan of Honda. That's why I chose that out of the used dealership.
Already I've changed the oil, oil filter, air filter, all the fluids, checked all the wiring, and it's really a simple and easy to maintain vehicle.
03 Honda Civic LX's look quite nice.

If I owned one I'd call it the muff-mobile.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:59 AM   #22 (permalink)
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03 Honda Civic LX's look quite nice.

If I owned one I'd call it the muff-mobile.
Whatever you do, if you buy one and decide to install new rear dash speaks in it, do NOT find yourself without a socket wrench.
(the coupe model, I mean)
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thats actually a pretty sweet setup there man. You running 2 seperate amps to that? Like one 4-channel for the door speakers and a D-Block for the subs? How are you getting your power? DO you have a capacitor? is so how big?

In my old car I ran 2 Inifnity Kappa Perfect 10's on an Infinity 1211a 1500 W D-Block. Pioneer door speakers (6x9's & 4x6's) and an Infinity 50x4 Amp on those. The sound was great but my power was a pain in the ass. So I ran a 30 farad cap and a Yellow top battery and never had any issues after that. Except for the rear view mirror falling off every couple days or so, which was an inconvienence.

Also, how do you have those dual front speakers crossed-over? Are you using bass blockers, a tweeter, or just EQ-ing at the amp? They didn't look like componets to me, component are definately the way to go. They take more power but your highs sound much better. It takes a long time to get the sound you want, not to mention money, thats if you're an audiophile like me. The slightest rattle or or peaking sound and im back tweaking and foaming my car. But of course if you just want loud, thats alot easier. P.S. Alpine is the way to go on Subs/Amps, if I ever did it again I would use almost all alpine stuff.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thats actually a pretty sweet setup there man. You running 2 seperate amps to that? Like one 4-channel for the door speakers and a D-Block for the subs? How are you getting your power? DO you have a capacitor? is so how big?

In my old car I ran 2 Inifnity Kappa Perfect 10's on an Infinity 1211a 1500 W D-Block. Pioneer door speakers (6x9's & 4x6's) and an Infinity 50x4 Amp on those. The sound was great but my power was a pain in the ass. So I ran a 30 farad cap and a Yellow top battery and never had any issues after that. Except for the rear view mirror falling off every couple days or so, which was an inconvienence.

Also, how do you have those dual front speakers crossed-over? Are you using bass blockers, a tweeter, or just EQ-ing at the amp? They didn't look like componets to me, component are definately the way to go. They take more power but your highs sound much better. It takes a long time to get the sound you want, not to mention money, thats if you're an audiophile like me. The slightest rattle or or peaking sound and im back tweaking and foaming my car. But of course if you just want loud, thats alot easier. P.S. Alpine is the way to go on Subs/Amps, if I ever did it again I would use almost all alpine stuff.
I'm a huge Alpine Fan. Their head units are by far the best, and their subs get very loud for the money. That's why i have Type R's.

I'm running a Hifonics 1606d to the subs (1600 rms) and a Rockford 500s to the front speakers that is 500 rms. So all around 2000 watts rms. I just put 4 .5 farad capacitors in my car, but i don't recommend them because they don't solve the problem, they just hide it. It's better to upgrade your alternator and battery, which i am going to do when i come up with $350. I see you had a yellow top, which i can't wait to get to help my voltage a bit.

I have my front speakers crossed over at 100 htz, and i am just using the tweeter that came with my diamond hexes. I don't need any bass blockers. I'm not running active so i just EQ from the head unit and it sounds perfect. Both sets of my speakers are components, and i agree, they are better. They have better mid bass response and a separate tweeter helps with imaging. I just put my tweeter in the A-pillar. And that box for my subs we made ourselves, i have it firing directly into the car for SQ, because i can't stand the rattling. It's all about SQ for me these days for me.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:51 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm a huge Alpine Fan. Their head units are by far the best, and their subs get very loud for the money. That's why i have Type R's.

I'm running a Hifonics 1606d to the subs (1600 rms) and a Rockford 500s to the front speakers that is 500 rms. So all around 2000 watts rms. I just put 4 .5 farad capacitors in my car, but i don't recommend them because they don't solve the problem, they just hide it. It's better to upgrade your alternator and battery, which i am going to do when i come up with $350. I see you had a yellow top, which i can't wait to get to help my voltage a bit.

I have my front speakers crossed over at 100 htz, and i am just using the tweeter that came with my diamond hexes. I don't need any bass blockers. I'm not running active so i just EQ from the head unit and it sounds perfect. Both sets of my speakers are components, and i agree, they are better. They have better mid bass response and a separate tweeter helps with imaging. I just put my tweeter in the A-pillar. And that box for my subs we made ourselves, i have it firing directly into the car for SQ, because i can't stand the rattling. It's all about SQ for me these days for me.
Is that box sealed or ported? I'm always kind of leary about home made boxes beacause subs are so 'picky' about box size. Ported is much easier obviously when it comes to sound. But whatever sounds good. So long as it meets the specs of the subs. You may want to look into upgrading that sub amp, surpsinigly when it comes to D Block amps, it is quality over quantity. I have heard 300 watt Phoenix Gold amps pound a 1500 watt no name amp off the street. So don't alway go for the most bang for the buck type deals. High Quality sub amps are well worth the extra money. Especially if you're going for sound quality.

Also, are you using any sort of adhesive matting or spray foam to avoid rattling in your truck? I know my car had these air flaps built in the truck ( I guess in case you had kidnapped someone). But they rattled very bad so i had to cut them off.
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