Quote:
Originally Posted by AwwSugar
What do you mean by the barring arm? It's obviously curved on the back of the arm but the frets are pretty much flat, if I look at it.
Yeah, it's a flat fretboard according to what I see here. xD
I didn't really think to get a screw capo, cause I feel like it'd be more difficult to deal with.
It's either spring or elastic, I think.
Thanks for the info and everything. [=
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Ah. "Pretty much flat" is basically a loose definition of what I said. Imagine tracing an imaginary line over your fretboard's cross section and continue until that circle reaches the other side of the fretboard. That's the fretboard radius, and depending upon make and model can range anywhere between 9" and 13".
I
believe (don't quote me on this) that the Takamine knock-offs almost all follow a similar body shape to my Ibanez AEG20E so your fretboard should be somewhat thinner than a Seagull or Yamaha. That being said any number of capos should work for you and I imagine you won't have any issues with them.
A bit more about what I said about capos that use set screws -- they tend to be more temperamental because they're affected tremendously by thermal expansion. What I mean by that is that your fretboard and capo expand at different rates due to temperature gradients, which can actually result in accidentally INCREASING the load on your fretboard and risking the possibility of damaging it. Whereas a spring-loaded capo induces a (relatively speaking) constant force on the fretboard making it nearly impossible for it to send your guitar out of tune.
Sorry if I wrote a lot there but this is one part of music technology that I actually understand and understand well.
